Driveway Sealcoating in Fargo, ND
Driveway sealcoating is a thin, sanded coat of asphalt emulsion or acrylic brushed or sprayed over an asphalt drive to shut out water and sun, and it matters around Fargo because meltwater that soaks into the mat freezes again on about 84 days of the year. The coat adds no strength. Its real work is slowing the oxidation that bleaches the binder gray and makes it brittle, and keeping the surface tight enough that snowmelt runs off instead of working down toward the base. On the newer drives across south Fargo, West Fargo and Horace, a first coat about a year after paving and recoats on a steady cycle slow the aging that ends in replacement. On an older drive, driveway sealing only pays once the cracks are closed; crack filling comes first.
Two-car drives mostly $210 - $860; about $0.30 - $2.10 a sq ft · full pricing guide
Most of the job happens before a pail of sealer is opened. Crews sweep and blow off the drive, edge soil and grass back from the sides, and scrub oil or antifreeze stains before treating them with primer, since a petroleum-soaked spot rejects sealer. Cracks are filled with hot rubberized material before any coat goes on. Around Fargo the edges usually need the most attention, since that is where winter snow banks sat and melted and where the asphalt has often begun to crumble into the lawn. Cleanup has a rule of its own: the city's storm water program forbids pouring oil, paint or similar materials into storm drains, and those drains lead to the Red River, so rinse water and leftover sealer stay out of the curb inlets.
Seal coating products come in three main families. Asphalt emulsion is the usual residential choice, acrylic and polymer-modified blends cost more in material, and refined coal tar is the third. North Dakota has no ban on coal tar, but Minnesota has prohibited selling or applying it since January 1, 2014, so a contractor working both banks has to carry a compliant product for Moorhead and Dilworth. By the USGS's count, coal-tar sealcoat usually carries roughly a thousand times the PAH load of asphalt-based sealcoat, and the particles it sheds travel on tires and shoes, even into homes. SealMaster, a large sealer maker, wants clean silica sand blended into its sealer, which gives grip to a surface that will be icy for much of the winter.
Weather decides the result more than the product does. The label rules are a pavement and air temperature of 50 degrees or more, still climbing, and a forecast free of rain for a day. GemSeal's own figure is that its sealer can dry about half as fast at 50 degrees as at 80, and slower still under humid, overcast skies or when the dew point sits within five degrees of the air. At Hector, June is the wettest month, averaging 3.90 inches of rain and about seven days that bring 0.10 inch or more, so June dates often move. July and August average 5.4 and 4.6 such days, with warmer nights, which is why the middle of summer gives a driveway the most dependable cure.
Recoating on a cycle works better than waiting until the drive looks bad. HomeGuide's schedule is a first coat roughly a year after paving, then a recoat every two to three years, and SealMaster's general figure is every three years, with faster wear where winters bring freeze-thaw cycles, moisture and snowplows. For a Fargo drive that is plowed or shoveled all winter, that points to a coat every two or three summers, each one laid over freshly filled cracks. Typical prices for single, two-car and long drives are on the cost page.
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What a driveway ready for sealer looks like
Asphalt shows its age in daylight. These are the signs worth checking on a dry afternoon in late May, after the winter grit has been swept off.
- Rain barely darkens a surface that has gone from black to pale gray
- Loose sand and small stones gather along the edges after rain or snowmelt
- Fine cracks are spreading in a web instead of single straight lines
- After a shower, damp blotches linger for hours instead of drying evenly
- The edges are breaking off where snow banks sat all winter
- Oil drips under the usual parking spot have softened the surface
- Nobody can remember a coat in the last three summers
When several show up at once, the binder at the top of the mat has oxidized. Sealing now is maintenance; a few more winters of freeze and thaw turn it into repair.
This summer's coat, repairs first, or a new surface
Gray alone does not mean a drive should be sealed this year, and some drives are past the point where sealer helps. These are the three usual paths.
Seal this summer
The drive is gray but solid underfoot, cracks run from hairline to narrow, and nothing flexes when a car rolls over it. Blow it clean, fill cracks, prime oil stains and lay two coats between June and August.
Repair first, seal later
There are potholes, soft spots or small patches of alligator cracking. Cut those out and patch them with hot mix in late spring, fill the remaining cracks, and seal once the patches have cured, later the same summer or the next one.
Resurface or replace
Cracks cover most of the surface, the drive heaves or sinks in the same places every year, or the asphalt has reached two or three decades of age. Sealer at that stage only colors a failing surface, and the money belongs in an overlay or a new drive built on a better base.
When a quote recommends sealing a drive that fits the third description, it is fair to ask why.
Driveway Sealcoating FAQs
Does a sanded seal coat make a driveway less slick in winter?
It helps. SealMaster calls for clean silica sand in its sealer mix, and the sand leaves a fine grit on the finished surface that a smooth coat lacks. It will not make ice safe, and it does not replace shoveling or a de-icer, but on a sloped section or the walk from the garage to the door the texture is noticeable. Ask the contractor whether sand is in the mix and at what rate, since not every product includes it.
What happens if rain hits a driveway the day it is sealed?
Sealer makers ask for a rain-free 24 hours because an emulsion that has not set can wash off or dry blotchy and uneven. If a storm is in the forecast, moving the date is the right call, even in a short season. At Hector, June brings about seven days with 0.10 inch of rain or more, the most of any month, so June appointments are the ones most likely to shift.
Should the concrete apron or garage slab be sealed with the asphalt?
No. Asphalt sealer is made for asphalt, and concrete needs its own products if it needs anything at all. A careful crew masks the edge where the drive meets a concrete apron or garage slab so the line stays clean. The joint between the two materials is a different matter: it tends to open as they move differently through freeze and thaw, and it should be filled with flexible crack filler before the coat goes down.
Is driveway sealing worth it on a drive that is 20 years old?
The base decides it more than the calendar age does. If the drive is solid underfoot, the cracks are narrow and nothing heaves or sinks, a coat over filled cracks can buy several more years. If cracks cover most of the surface or the same spots fail every spring, sealer only darkens a failing mat. HomeGuide's rule of thumb is to replace a drive once cracking spreads over 60 percent or more of the surface; the paving page covers that choice.
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